When you travel alone, you give yourself the chance to be quiet, to take it all in. In June 2006 I returned to South Africa, and as I made my way from Cape Town to friends in Grahamstown, I stopped in Nature’s Valley on the Garden Route. The small bus meandered from the highway down to the coast. As we zig zagged through the forest, I felt the quiet descend. I checked into my hostel and walked to the beach. It must have smelled like the sea and the mountains: salt and green.